Thursday 30 April 2009

All Change

It's been a busy day here in Carcassonne. It was a lovely day to be out and about. It was a lovely day to be my guests - breakfast brought to the room, clear blue skies, warm but not too hot so perfect for exploring the Cité and then a wine tasting with me in the evening.

My charming American couple are on their honeymoon trip around France and appear to be loving every minute - which is as it should be in every sense.

This evening I put together a wine tasting of local Languedoc wines plus a few 'tapas' to compliment, which went very well - so well in fact we were still sat round the table three hours after we started which is a long time to taste five wines. You are probably thinking that we polished off the five bottles between the three of us but nothing could be further from the truth - one glass each from four and we finished the fifth.

We started with a Blanquette Methode Ancestrale from Limoux and then sampled a white from Picpoul de Pinet (heavenly with the local oysters - sadly we didn't have any this evening) and a local chardonnay before comparing a red from the Minervois with a red from the Corbieres - which was everyone's favourite and the one we finished off.

We had started thirty minutes later than planned because I was running behind schedule. I had wasted a good hour driving from shop to shop looking for a clothes rail - it's never straightforward finding what you want is it? I went to four different stores convinced that each would have what I wanted, but to no avail. I wasted twenty minutes in Tridome because they had moved everything around - why do stores do that? - I knew where it all was beforehand and it's no clearer or better now than it was before - and then they didn't have what I wanted.

The reason for the rail is that I am moving out of my bedroom into the spare room and need to move all our belongings out too. To maximise income the main bedroom has now become the Master Suite and this weekend will see the first clients arrive.

You think that you don't have much stuff - my God, we have so much more than meets the eye - but I think I have found a home for it all - I am very good at packing and stacking!!

Tuesday 28 April 2009

On my hands and knees

I am back in France after a long weekend in London - new guests arriving tomorrow and a busy weekend coming up followed by a visit from my Mum and Dad next week - somehow a family visit creates more stress than the paying guests, but more of that when we get to it.

Apart from taking the opportunity to go back to London and see Debrah for a few days, there was another purpose for my trip. We have now owned our London apartment for over three years and it was beginning to look a bit tatty round the edges to say the least - so a makeover has been planned by Debrah and this weekend was the start of the project.

As soon as I got back there on Thursday afternoon I started ripping up the old carpet and underlay from the living room and hallway and spent all day Friday and Saturday putting down a new wood (walnut) floor. Debrah freshened up the paint scheme too and a couple of new units with drawers will help to give it all a much tidier look and feel.

I was really pleased with how the flooring went - it's the first time I have laid a floor like that and I know that Debrah had doubts about my ability to do the job, but I am so much more prepared these days for DIY than I ever was before I renovated our French apartments. I'd seen it done, I knew how to do it, I prepped well and made sure that I had the right tools and even though I know it's not perfect (nobody else will notice) I'm really happy with it, and more importantly, so is Debrah.

My knees, legs and back are less happy about the whole weekend but they will survive. In a strange way I really enjoyed the change from ironing/cleaning/cooking and having a project to complete. My body might have ached but my brain was totally engaged - there is a odd sense of satisfaction in tired muscles and joints knowing that it was worth all the effort.

My DIY efforts didn't end with my return to Carcassonne - This afternoon I had to set up the internal scaffold to deal with a curtain track that was coming away from the wall in the Mezzanine suite - the result of many clients pulling on the curtains and a lime plaster finish on old walls.

This evening I christened my shiny new balls, or 'boules' to be more precise. I finally got around to buying myself a set a few weeks ago, but the weather has been so miserable here that there hasn't been an opportunity to use them until this evening when, for once, it was better than the forecast but still a bit chilly because of a cold breeze.

It was a successful evening. Pierre and myself won a doubles match with some great team play and then I won the singles too, with a bit of good fortune and help from others here and there, it must be acknowledged.

Don't laugh, but I find the whole 'boules' experience quite exhilarating and tiring - must be all that concentration and fresh air.

Tuesday 21 April 2009

Cup Winners

The rugby league boys appear to have finally stopped celebrating. There was no sign of them today - I'm sure they were sleeping it off.

Carcassonne won the French Rugby League Cup Final on Sunday, beating local rivals Limoux 18-16 after coming back from ten points down in the final quarter of the match. The match was played in Albi and I almost wish I had gone up to watch it, except that I couldn't because I had new guests arriving.

On Monday morning they were all still in the square, with the trophy, outside Bar Felix in the rain - soaked in every sense of the word. Bar Felix is owned by a former Carcassonne player who lifted the trophy in the 60's - so it was a very appropriate venue. Well done to them - and the first cup win for 19 years so well overdue too.

It was a good weekend all round for Carcassonne rugby as the union team won their final game of the regular season and qualified for the quarter finals of the play-offs - three more wins and they will be promoted to the second tier of French professional rugby - just one step down from the big boys - or should I say, the even bigger boys.

The players were the only ones who didn't really care about, or notice, the ongoing rubbish weather - drizzle all day yesterday and this morning and some very heavy downpours this evening. At least the vignerons will be happy.

All the rain means that the jigsaw is still going strong. It's completely in the way on the kitchen table but I can't bring myself to break it up until I have finished it. A few pieces get put in every couple of hours. I'm halfway through completing the sea - just a thousand pieces of sky to go after that.

It has also been a good day for the Audi which has had it's exhaust sorted - hurrah - no more rattles, no more electric wire holding it together. You have to love a bit of 'marché noire' action too - €40 handed over for a solid welding and fixing job and no questions asked. The Audi lives on - long live the Audi.

Monday 20 April 2009

Catch-up

Where does the time go? - I have just noticed that it is a week since I last posted a blog - that's rubbish that is.

In the intervening period I have been back to London with Debrah for a few days. I spent some of my time planning and sorting the materials for laying a new floor in the living room and hallway of the London apartment. Everything is ready for when I return this week on Thursday. I have never laid a wooden floor before but I have seen it done and I'm not afraid of anything these days - so we will give it a go ('we' being Christian and me - he promised to help me out)

To be honest, I came back to France on Saturday morning rather reluctantly - I would rather have stayed and got on with laying the floor and I would rather have stayed with Debrah.

But two sets of guests were due and return I did. I have just finished dinner for them all and done most of the washing up (all except the glasses). One vegetarian and one 9 weeks pregnant - so a slight tip-toeing around various ingredients but not too tricky to sort out and everyone seemed to have a good time so hopefully some more good reviews to come.

I know that's not much of a catch-up for a weeks worth of activity but, quite frankly, I am feeling a bit knackered and I have to be up to take the car to the garage for exhaust repairs and to do breakfasts, so I am off to bed. Goodnight.

Monday 13 April 2009

Contradiction

Maybe I should have taken the comments about the ghosts a bit more seriously.

Yesterday, completely out of the blue, the false front on the dishwasher fell off - which makes loading and unloading the thing a lot more difficult.

Today, the sun finally emerged (weakly it must be said) and Debrah and I ventured out in the car only for the rear supporting bracket on the exhaust to break just a few miles down the road - thus curtailing our little adventure.

Maybe the spirits were unimpressed by my nonchalance regarding their existence. Or maybe the kitchen was fitted by a couple of dimwits a few years ago and I've been having to correct their ineptitude ever since and maybe the exhaust bracket has been waiting to fall off for the two years that the exhaust has been held on by electrical wire. I know which I believe.

So two more repair jobs to sort on top of the usual round of daily and weekly chores that keep this place ticking over.

All the guests left today (just before the sun came out) and both suites have been cleared and prepped ahead of our return to London tomorrow. The jigsaw isn't even close to being finished so it will just have to wait.

The weekend wasn't completely without it's high points though. We had a fabulous lunch with Denis yesterday at Domaine Gayda - started at 1.30 and finished at 5.00 - that's a proper lunch. Denis was as charming and lovely company as he always is and the restaurant was full of people enjoying an Easter Sunday, including one party of about 30 locals that spanned at least four generations.

This evening over dinner we enjoyed the bonus of being able to watch the TV in the empty haunted suite (that's a contradiction isn't it - it can't be empty if it's haunted). Anyway, we watched a movie called 'The Science of Sleep' which was a bit weird and French (which isn't a contradiction) - enjoyable but mad.

Sunday 12 April 2009

Is there a ghost in the house?

When I took breakfast this morning to our Irish guests staying in the Studio/Mezzanine/Loft apartment (we can't decide what to call it) I was greeted with a comment I hadn't had from any of our previous visitors.

"Do you know that you have ghosts in this apartment? I noticed them as soon as I went to bed. It's more noticeable because you are sleeping higher up on the mezzanine and are closer to the ceiling which is where they are. I lit some incense and they went away but they were back again in the middle of the night. I could get you a sage rubstick which would cleanse the room of them."

I wasn't sure what to say. I don't believe in ghosts so had to try hard not to laugh about it because she was clearly very earnest about the whole experience. If ghosts exist then maybe they would live in an old house like this that has a long history - who knows.

Interestingly, he, the writer with a touch of James Joyce about him (according to Debrah who was flirting with him on Friday evening when he came to borrow some dvds) didn't say a word on the subject at all - did he feel them too?

Maybe there is a new marketing angle for us here - 'The Haunted Apartment'?

Coming back to the reality of things that we can explain - it has been a quite miserable Easter weatherwise here in Carcassonne, with pretty much constant pouring rain for two days. It always makes me feel sorry for the poor guests who are only here for a couple of days because there is nothing worse than trudging around the Cité or the market in the rain.

It's not great for Debrah either who is also just here for a couple of days. the market in the rain is a constant battle against umbrellas and shopping trolleys and drips from the awnings and puddles underfoot - takes all the pleasure out of it. The only thing to do is to find a good restaurant and have a good long lunch with plenty of wine - which is what we sent the Irish to do at La Roulotte yesterday. It might explain things.

We were so housebound by the weather and twiddling our thumbs a bit that we started a jigsaw! I can't remember the last time I did a jigsaw but I am enjoying it despite it now being a little bit in the way on the kitchen table and it becoming a bit obsessive to the point of monopolising our time.

As I sit here writing this I am listening to one of the most beautiful sounds in the world - the bells of all the churches here in town are ringing out for the end of the Easter Sunday mass. I just close my eyes and let the gloriousness of it wash across me - wonderful.

And No, I haven't been to church - not for a long time.

Wednesday 8 April 2009

Nice to see Denis

There was no reply from my Spanish guests this morning when I first knocked on their door with their breakfast tray in hand - it was 9am - so not that early really. I was worried about the coffee going cold, so made a fresh pot and went back fifteen minutes later - they had finally surfaced.

That's all I have seen of them so far - just handing over the tray in the morning and then collecting from their room during the day when they are out. I hear their TV going (quite loud) during the evening but they haven't bothered me for anything at all. They are off tomorrow - I hope they have enjoyed their stay.

My other guests left today and they said they had had a marvellous time, despite the rain. I took them up to the airport late this afternoon and then immediately turned their room around ready for the new Friday guests - I wanted to get that out of the way before Debrah comes tomorrow.

That was my second trip to the airport today - I went up at lunchtime to collect Denis off the Dublin flight. He phoned me from Dublin airport this morning to say that he had forgotten the keys to his apartment and could I leave the spare set that I hold for him somewhere convenient - it was just much easier to collect him from the airport which I was always going to do anyway - key problem or not.

We went out for a bite to eat this evening at 'La Divine Comedie' - he had 'confit de canard' and I had 'escalope de veau a la creme' and we sank a bottle of La Tour Boisee 2006 red from the Minervois - good but a bit young still. We had arrived at exactly 7.30pm when they opened and were the first to take a table - ten minutes later and the whole restaurant was full - good for them I thought, at a time when many restaurants are still not opening all week because it is too early in the season !

The grey haired owner always makes a point of wandering around all the tables and saying hello, asking if everything is alright. I was impressed that he was handing out town maps and guides to anyone he thought was a visitor - very proactive - no wonder the place was full. I introduced myself and left my card and we agreed to talk about me sending him clients and him offering them something - excellent business all round.

After that Denis and I found our way to the Celt bar to watch the football and do some socialising - a good night out unless you were a Liverpool or Bayern fan.

Debrah arrives from London tomorrow and I couldn't be more excited about that than I am - I probably won't be able to sleep.

Tuesday 7 April 2009

Bring on the Summer

My last minute booking Spanish guests arrived last evening - she was looking pregnant and tired, he was looking stressed and tired. They appeared to have brought half their 'casa' with them from Barcelona. However, language problems apart, they seem to be very happy with the place.

It hasn't been a great first day for them though - it has rained pretty much non-stop since first thing this morning, which is somewhat annoying as I have cleaned all the windows in all the apartments over the last few days - typical.

My other guests, who arrived on Sunday with a roof-down pick up from the airport, have had a slightly better time of things but even they had to abandon their canalside walk this morning - they retreated back to their suite and cracked open some wine.

I had a wine filled afternoon, myself, down at Vinecole, where Matthew and Emma were hosting a tasting for holiday property owners and presenting their schedule of events for the summer. Finally I managed to be get to chat with Tim Ford, the owner of Domaine Gayda, where the wine school is based - and also to his lovely wife Barbara. It was such a shame that Debrah wasn't here too because I know she would have loved to meet them - but we will try to arrange that soon.

I did dinner for the Sunday arrivals on Sunday evening, which was very enjoyable - because they seemed to really enjoy it and also because I hadn't done a dinner for a few weeks and I enjoyed it too. Asparagus is back as the 'entree' of choice but the rest of the dinner followed the tried and trusted winter route of confit de canard, cheese and hot chocolate fondant.

I am so looking forward to ripe melons and tomatoes - I have had enough of winter food - bring them on.

Friday 3 April 2009

A good day

As I didn't have to worry about client breakfasts this morning, I didn't set the alarm and thought I might have a nice lie-in - so naturally I was wide awake at 7.00am - typical!

Actually it wasn't a bad thing to be up and alert and raring to go. I got up and made myself a pot of coffee and some fruit and yoghurt and went back to bed with my computer and worked out the website re-write that I have trying to get head round for a couple of weeks. It was a productive morning.

By the time I had finished that and showered and dressed, the sun had emerged (at last) - so I wandered down to the square to see what was going on, taking a book with me in case I ended up on my own. The book proved unnecessary as first Cathy and the Patrick joined me for a very pleasant couple of hours.

However, I was determined not to waste another day and so headed back to sort out the Apartment suite for the guests that will arrive on Sunday. On a sudden whim I decided that all the windows needed cleaning too so set about the two sets of double windows that open onto the street plus the two sets of internal double doors with fanlights above and the oval window over the stairwell.

Having got started I couldn't stop and so attacked the dining room windows too as well as giving the dining room and the main living room a good top to bottom clean.

Fortunately Bob called to ask if I wanted to play boules, otherwise I might have ended up cleaning everything. Boules had been planned all week but called off each day due to the weather - being English we are very philosophical about our sport being called off because of the weather - but when the opportunity arises we rush to take advantage.

I jumped on my bike and cycled down to the banks of the River Aude, just in front of Patrick's place, which is the current arena of choice, mainly because no-one else seems to use it. David was already there, ominously practising on his own. We started to play as we waited for Bob to arrive and no matter how good my boules were, David's were better - the score was an embarrassing 12-0 by the time Bob arrived.

Still, it's first to 13 so that game didn't count and we started a new one and suddenly I couldn't do anything wrong and ran out the winner of the first game quite easily and then also the second game with a bit of a late comeback after a slow start. I'm not boasting - it was more luck than judgement - but it was a very enjoyable two hours spent in the harmless pursuit of a bit of friendly competitive sport, with La Cité de Carcassonne as a scenic backdrop, the fast flowing river providing the background soundtrack and the moon and stars and low flying bats above. Bob had thoughtfully brought along a bottle of wine - just in case the exertion made us a bit thirsty!

By the time we had finished the light had virtually disappeared into night and we were in fact hungry, not thirsty. A straightforward steak and chips supper at 'La Magnac' was a perfect end to a very good day.

Thursday 2 April 2009

Summer Line-up

It hasn't stopped raining for three days now and I'm very bored of this very grey, cold, damp and miserable British weather. Can we please have some sunshine and light back.

My mood hasn't been helped by my inability to shake off this cold that has been hanging around for a couple of weeks now - still a bit blocked up and ears still a bit funny, although much improved from the weekend. I have been retreating to bed in a depressive state, which isn't good.

Of course, I am missing Debrah very much which doesn't help at all - but we need to make ends meet and I have clients here and she has work in London.

My Edinburgh guests departed this morning, so I have a couple of free days before the next guests arrive on Sunday. I need to re-write the website content to include weekly rentals as well as our current 3 night package and bed and breakfast stays, so will use this time to get that finished. The weekly rentals will allow me to be in London when Debrah can't be here so it is urgent for us both that it gets done.

I was interested to see that there were a couple of hits on the website that had connected from Twitter. I have recently signed up and have started tweeting away - I like the immediacy and the banality of the comments. I know what a couple of my best friends are doing and thinking back in London without me having to call or email. I'm not sure yet about how it can be used or it's effectiveness as a marketing tool but I'll keep experimenting and looking at what other people are doing - if it generates one booking or some publicity then it will be worth it.

With timing to perfection for the website re-write, the programme for the Summer Festival was announced today. I guess it's because I am a registered 'chambre d'hote' at the 'Mairie' that I received my invite to this evenings presentation at the theatre Jean Alary. The mayor rattled on for a bit, as mayor's do, about 'culture' and 'diversité' and 'accessibilité' and many other things ending in é. In fact I was rather pleased that I managed to understand the 'majorité' of what was said - well it is just English with different spelling and pronounciation.

Wouldn't that be a great opening line to throw in to a French dinner party - it's just English with different spelling , not the other way round - what a reaction that would get.

There were no massive surprises for the festival - not to me anyway - partly because Patrick's girlfriend, Rafaele, who works for the local radio station, Cherie FM, had leaked it all out to us beforehand - but there were audible intakes of breath from many in the audience who clearly were totally in the dark before tonight.

The international stars announced were Depeche Mode (slight murmuring), Lenny Kravitz (much murmuring), Status Quo (silence) and Seal (sharp intake of excitement). There was also much murmuring about many of the French acts of whom I know nothing so won't presume to comment. Some of the classical concerts look very good and the free festival of the bastide also has some interesting acts so all in all not a bad line-up for July.

There was much made about the fact that there had been long discussions with Bruce Springsteen - but it didn't happen and he's not coming - so why go on about it?

There was no announcement about the Spanish festival which was a shame because I would like to have the dates confirmed. We all know what the line up will be - Chico and the Gypsies, some other serious blokes playing acoustic guitars, hand clapping and foot stamping dance stuff and several million litres of cheap rosé. Ahh, Spain.

The more immediate Spanish invasion will be Easter weekend, which traditionally sees thousands of Spanish visitors in 'La Cité' and all the cafes running out of milk because they are taken by surprise, again, at the number of visitors asking for 'cafe con leche'.

I love this ridiculously frustrating and amusing country - if only it would stop raining it would be bearable.